Wednesday, November 29, 2006

The king his nipple and the holy beardsicle

Ron, Grant and I headed out to King Creek AGAIN on sunday. It was a chilly -25 so a little ice cragging for the day wasn't a hard call. Climbs are finally filling out due to the cold snap

The main ice had water spraying out of the middle, which made a great water fountain when our nalgenes froze.

Here's ron burning his arms off on TR.

Grant showing off his mixed skills.Grant hanging out.
Holy beardsicle!

South Ghost

Here we are in the south ghost about halfway up the approach trail.

The Joker (50m lll, WI 2-3)Why does everyone always give me the finger?

Thursday, November 23, 2006

Monday, November 13, 2006

Ain't that a B

One more early season weekend of ice down, one hurtin pinky to recover before next weekend. Saturday saw us in King's Creek for some tooling around. The flow is getting some thickness, Brenden said it lost some compared to last weekend due to warmer weather. One other climbing party was climbing a wicked looking bolted mixed line on the way out, don't know where it is? ...not going to tell you.

After getting out at 6am on sunday it was off the ghost (SWEET!) Talked to a couple climbers at the bottom of the big hill, they were headed south and we made our decision to head north. The real big drip as viewed from the bottom of the big hill

GBU is forming up
So are The Indifferent and Angel Eyes
As well as some flows to the right of GBU that i havn't seen before.

This house of sky (500m lll, WI 3-4+) seemed to have the best chances of being in so we headed up. We tied up Luger to a tree with some food on the ground before the first step.
Everything with thin, wet or both but the climbing was great.

This is a piece of ice that hit me in the pinky, next time i'm going to hide behind the belayer.

Ron's first lead of the year, and Brenden soloing up while he sets up a belay.
As if getting hit in the hand with a 20 pound piece of wasn't good enough, the ice in this pool didn't feel like holding me up. Both feet are on the bottom of the pool with water at my waist.SHIT, better take a picture of that. Then the ice breaks as i take a picture of the first hole, so soaked i just sit down and take my time getting out. Brenden's pirate language from up the creek tells me i'm not the only one drippping.

That was enough for me, after rapping back down the step we had just climbed, I fall in again. I just can't get any wetter so it wasn't that bad. We met up with 6 more climbers heading up the route,i would they didn't all come out dry. It was at least noon by then so it was only getting warmer, now if only Ron will fall in too I won't feel so bad
Remembering the beer we have back at the truck kick our asses into gear and we do some rapping. Ron fell through and got a leg wet, YES!. I come to the edge of the second to last step only to see my dog unroped and above a 15 meter vertical ice section I decide that if he looks that happy it can't be bad. Leason of the day was use a LOCKING beener to tie up the dog, seems he knows about crossloading a gate. He also has good routefinding abilities, we could see the tracks heading up the side and around the icestep. If i never have to get lowered while trying to hold 100 pounds of wiggling shepherd I will be very happy. Beers at truck were great, so was wringing water out of both boots. I thought gore-tex was waterproof? guess I broke it

Wednesday, November 08, 2006