Sunday, December 23, 2007

Valley of the Sun

With final exams over and a brand new set of picks it must be time to climb. Brenden, Kevin, Kyle, Ryan and I went to the north ghost on Saturday. Plans were to do THOS but we picked the Valley of the sun to avoid conversing with other parties that actually listen to SRD road closures. I’m sure the trout thank your selfless trek to and from mile marker 39. Does head shaking and finger wagging keep your ass warm?

The climb was great except the last pitch on the side at the top which was super brittle and platey so we left it alone. It’s super cool that someone decided to steal one of the two hangers of each of the two lowest rap anchors. I have dreams about the day I catch somebody stealing bolt hangers…don’t let it be YOU! ‘cause stealing hangers is so not cool.

Friday, November 30, 2007

Way to go shoulder

After more than a month off climbing I finally felt like lifting my arm above my head so Chris and I went to King's Creek. Cold enough that we both got the barfies but my shoulder was feeling great.

Thursday, November 29, 2007


Accidents happen all the time and they invariably always lead to injuries. A sore shoulder has started me thinking about all the injuries i've had. It seems they pile up, some never getting worse but never getting better. But where do all these injuries come from, could they be related. It's not as though i've been in some terrible accident that has scarred me for life, wait a minute... there was that time, on that mountain road

...and we slid off
and rolled a couple dozen times till we got to the bottom of the mountain.

It's not that i forgot it's that we all walked away (sans seatbelts). I had a cut lip, no big deal. Then there was that time i t-boned an aerostar full of natives in my pickup at 80.

I have a sore neck. All the time, especially when i have to look up. So I don't look up. Now I find out I have a winged scapula. Sounds super cool I know, but its not. The PT i'm seeing says that my rhomboid and serratus aren't strong enough so i'm supposed to do stupid arm lifts to try and fix it. I try to do the lift, my shoulders hurt. So i don't do it. Turns out that winged scapula can be caused by nerve damage in an accident. So I guess it's off to the doctor. But i'm going ice climbing first.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Aid Climbing, Wasootch

I tried aid climbing for the first time. Lots of fun but it takes forever. We only did one short pitch each, and i did it on TR. I don't think I can afford to start aid climbing, but all that gear sure would be cool. Used ballnuts for the first time, i definitly need a set of those.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

Mt. Baldy

Mount Baldy scramble, 5 hours. Richard, John Fell, Lilly Goga, and JP Borget


Monday, September 17, 2007

Mt. Indefatigable, Joy Route, 5.4+ slab

I went to Kananaskis on sunday with brenden for the Joy Route on Mt Indefatigable. Great trad route, lots of easy pro placements, but we could have used more small TCU's and less nuts. A gust front came through in the afternoon. It is not a route you would want to be on if it was really windy, it was a little dicey crossing the ridge after the end of the route.

Friday, September 14, 2007

MSR Reactor

After waiting since mid-february on back order, I finally got my MSR reactor stove today. Sometimes christmas comes twice a year.

Monday, September 03, 2007

SIV Course

After a day climbing in the Bugaboos I went out to Mara Lake for the advanced manoeuvres course with Chris Santacroce. It was a lot to learn in such a short time, but they are good to know. I already can’t wait for next year so I can try and get better, wingovers and asymmetric spirals kick ass! I got 10 flights in over the 3 days I was there and didn’t really start learning to do the moves until the last day. On my last flight of the second day a gust front rolled in after Devon and I had launched. I got soaked with rain, but I managed to pull a B-line stall for a couple minutes and land in the middle of the lake. Devon went for an hour long ride, eventually landing in the field behind the campground. Unfortunately its back to school on Tuesday…fuck


This was my second time in the Bugaboos. Last time I felt like a bag of shit the first day hiking up, this time I felt like shit the whole time. Chris and I camped in the Boulder campground this time which is 10 minutes away from the Kain hut. We hauled ass up the approach trail and got it done in 2 hours. After a 4 a.m. alpine start the next day we did the snowpatch route on Snowpatch spire. Route finding was hard all the way up, we ended up taking a 5.8 variation near the top. My mind was totally blown and Chris had to lead the last 4 pitches. We topped out into a snow storm, one party on Bugaboo spire was forced to bivi the night away. Weather was deteriorating for the next few days so the decision was made to go home. I don’t think I could of climbed another day anyway.

Chris and I at the summit

The start of the first set of 5 rappels

The second set of four rappels is the corner system on the right

Full-on winter conditions on Bugaboo spire