Monday, September 17, 2007

Mt. Indefatigable, Joy Route, 5.4+ slab

I went to Kananaskis on sunday with brenden for the Joy Route on Mt Indefatigable. Great trad route, lots of easy pro placements, but we could have used more small TCU's and less nuts. A gust front came through in the afternoon. It is not a route you would want to be on if it was really windy, it was a little dicey crossing the ridge after the end of the route.

Friday, September 14, 2007

MSR Reactor

After waiting since mid-february on back order, I finally got my MSR reactor stove today. Sometimes christmas comes twice a year.

Monday, September 03, 2007

SIV Course

After a day climbing in the Bugaboos I went out to Mara Lake for the advanced manoeuvres course with Chris Santacroce. It was a lot to learn in such a short time, but they are good to know. I already can’t wait for next year so I can try and get better, wingovers and asymmetric spirals kick ass! I got 10 flights in over the 3 days I was there and didn’t really start learning to do the moves until the last day. On my last flight of the second day a gust front rolled in after Devon and I had launched. I got soaked with rain, but I managed to pull a B-line stall for a couple minutes and land in the middle of the lake. Devon went for an hour long ride, eventually landing in the field behind the campground. Unfortunately its back to school on Tuesday…fuck


This was my second time in the Bugaboos. Last time I felt like a bag of shit the first day hiking up, this time I felt like shit the whole time. Chris and I camped in the Boulder campground this time which is 10 minutes away from the Kain hut. We hauled ass up the approach trail and got it done in 2 hours. After a 4 a.m. alpine start the next day we did the snowpatch route on Snowpatch spire. Route finding was hard all the way up, we ended up taking a 5.8 variation near the top. My mind was totally blown and Chris had to lead the last 4 pitches. We topped out into a snow storm, one party on Bugaboo spire was forced to bivi the night away. Weather was deteriorating for the next few days so the decision was made to go home. I don’t think I could of climbed another day anyway.

Chris and I at the summit

The start of the first set of 5 rappels

The second set of four rappels is the corner system on the right

Full-on winter conditions on Bugaboo spire