This was my second time in the Bugaboos. Last time I felt like a bag of shit the first day hiking up, this time I felt like shit the whole time. Chris and I camped in the Boulder campground this time which is 10 minutes away from the Kain hut. We hauled ass up the approach trail and got it done in 2 hours. After a 4 a.m. alpine start the next day we did the snowpatch route on Snowpatch spire. Route finding was hard all the way up, we ended up taking a 5.8 variation near the top. My mind was totally blown and Chris had to lead the last 4 pitches. We topped out into a snow storm, one party on Bugaboo spire was forced to bivi the night away. Weather was deteriorating for the next few days so the decision was made to go home. I don’t think I could of climbed another day anyway.
Chris and I at the summit
The start of the first set of 5 rappels
The second set of four rappels is the corner system on the right
Full-on winter conditions on Bugaboo spire